We waited an extra day until a favourable wind settled for us to make the pass into Maupiti. We arranged the ‘knitting’ for twin yankees to be flown and rolled our way through a confused sea at a reasonable speed to this island in the middle of the ocean, about thirty nm from Bora Bora.
The Passe Onoiau (flanked by Motu Tiapaa on the east and Motu Pitiahe on the west) can be treacherous so we were prepared to abort if the conditions were not right. Stephen, taking the helm and at high revs, controlled our entry through a marked narrow passage. Either side of us huge powerful surf and crashing waves pounded the submerged coral reef and along the pass the water bubbled and swirled like a witch’s cauldron. A huge relief for both of us once we had transited and eventually anchored beneath the bulbous Hotu Parata clif,f close to the main settlement of Vaiea, with a stiff G&T for the skipper. This pass is notorious for it’s dangerous character and may have deterred the Europeans from colonising the island until much later than the other Societies.
Maupiti at the west of the Society islands has the characteristics of a small coral atoll with an extinct volcanic island in the middle. The lagoon is shallow compared to some of the other places we have visited, surrounded by a necklace of five large motus. It’s ancient name was Vaitu and formerly known as Maura but Maupiti means “two mountains”, a smaller version of Bora Bora with twin peaks. The island is likened to Bora Bora of the sixties.
Very little is written about this beautiful place but archeological artefacts have been unearthed on Motu Pae’ao, in the north, dating from AD850. This Motu was used as a burial ground and strong links were associated between the people of New Zealand and the Society Islands by the discovery of similar cultural finds, i.e. fish hooks, tools, pestles and pendants. Legend has it that God Hiro’s canoe is in the Vaitea Valley and the red cliff has connections to the great warrior Nina Here.
The Dutchman, Roggeveen, was the first European to visit the island in 1722, together with Bora Bora, which on a relatively clear day, you can see with her iconic shape.
Maupiti was devastated by Cyclone Osea in December 1997 and reconstructed by 1999 with aid from the French government.
The economy here is vague with it being suggested that people survive on government allowances, some tourism with family run pensions and no resorts. The guide book suggests that there are two small eating establishments on the white Tereia beach. Fishing doesn't appear to have any link with the economy here so we assume the fisherman go out for family and pension needs only. The island is served by flights from Raiatea and Bora Bora and the vessel Maupiti Express continues to transport passengers, inter island. The watermelon and Noni exports have dried up and there are few jobs for the island’s younger generation. Water is a precious commodity here and most dwellings have a rain water collection system linked to a huge water tank. Throughout the island there are water standpipes where we regularly saw locals with backpacks or wooden carts attached to their bicycles, transporting their empty Coca Cola bottles to fill with drinking. Another feature we noticed was there was a degree of borderline poverty on the island which we hadn't experienced elsewhere in FPI. We keep all our discarded clothes, kitchen equipment, books etc to share with communities that are in need. We had a sailing bag bursting with such items for our visit to Tonga in the future but felt that the community on Maupiti would benefit. The lady running the only fuel station on the island was very grateful when Stephen handed over the heavy bag, thanking us profusely. It was humbling to share items we no longer required but others will use.
We had this jewel with it’s shades of jade and emerald lagoon almost to ourselves, what a treat. Upon checking out of FPI in Bora Bora, some cruisers get permission to stay 24 hours in Maupiti, before continuing on their journey west. We haven't thought about checking out of the FPI yet, too many places to visit first, maybe late next year, who knows, our plans change all the time?
We decided to walk the 10 km island circumference and the views of the lagoon with the green mountainous backdrop were stupendous. We passed many maraes, some on the waters edge and others poking above the shallows in various states. Rustic halved tree trunks were arranged in a circle for rest stops and often at wonderful viewpoints. Most of the motus appear larger than the main island and many of the pensions are located on the various motus. The village of Vai’ea runs along the coastal road from north to south. It is densely populated with young children out to play, dogs and pigs asleep in the shade and the perimeters of the many properties are extremely close. We came across a locked enclosed area with large glistening white temple like structures erupting above the fence. A local lady informed us that a local artist has designed this and charges $20 per person to enter the enclosure. We declined, we could see most of the art from the road.
Maupiti has a small port with a clean, new purpose built wharf for the tour boats and taxis. We were beckoned in with “M”, given a space and a gentleman helped tie us up. Fuel is obtainable there for dinghies. Everyone smiles and greets us, we felt truly welcomed.
Maupiti is renowned for her Manta Ray cleaning station which are frequented by these majestic giants. The Mantas hover above coral heads momentarily, allowing (as researched from the Internet) various types of fish to consume the external parasites on their bodies. Wrasse are known to do the basic cleaning, with Sergeant Majors as dental hygienists and Butterfly fish tending to any wounds.
We were determined to experience this unique behaviour and alerted by the odd local boat depositing people in the water, we attached ourselves to the group and in no time, a gigantic Manta Ray slowly glided beneath us.
Manta is Portuguese and Spanish for mantle, describing a cloak or blanket. The body of the Manta Ray is dark on top (dorsal) and pale beneath (ventral). It’s skin is coated in mucus which protects the fish from infection. The triangular wings (fins) can reach up to 7 metres across in an adult; the width of the body being twice that of it’s length. Horn shaped cephalic fins on the side of the front facing rectangular mouth, sweep food towards this orifice. It is claimed that the cephalic fins give an evil appearance, suggesting the alternative name of Devilfish.
Unlike other rays, the Manta is a filter feeder sucking in zooplankton nearer the surface but 73% of their diet consists of fish and organisms from 200-1,000 metres below the surface. The Manta engulfs 13% of it’s body weight every week and a mature Ray can reach up to 1,350 kgs. They track their prey by visual and olfactory senses and researchers claim that a Manta has the largest brain of all fish. Mantas’ predators are large sharks and Orcas.
Graceful and ballet like, the Mantas must swim continuously to allow oxygenated water to pass over their gills, they can't go astern!
All too soon our weather window arrived to transit the pass and sail back to Tahiti. We are thrilled to have visited this unspoilt jewel with some of the friendliest Polynesians. A degree of sadness settled on us as we looked back towards the island, slowly disappearing into the horizon but we were taking away some magical moments.