We signed up for the 2014 Antigua Oyster Regatta and after one cruise following the race boats, we decided to enjoy the rest of the parties without racing Amelie.
A memorable BBQ at Carlisle Bay with a leisurely lunch at Catherine’s the following day, finished off with a private party at Shirley Heights. Many of the remaining OWR participants were there and we had a fantastic time dancing to the Reggae band and entertained by Markos doing a rendition of Bob Marley’s hits.
As usual the parties continued with an impromptu BBQ on Pigeon Beach and the following day, a dismal meal at Nonsuch Bay resort - although the band were excellent.
Last day of racing and we found ourselves in Cloggys with Trish and Kady having lunch. Another party in the evening at the Copper and Lumber Hotel in the picturesque Nelson’s Dockyard, completed the Regatta.
The emotional goodbyes at Catherine’s started the next day with Pearl of Persia and Duchess. They were a taster of what was to come.
Over the next few days, we had a 2,000 hour generator service and continued to socialize with the boats remaining in Antigua. More goodbyes, mainly to the young guys, although some slipped the net - you know who you are!
Antiguan legislation insists on no alcohol being sold on Good Friday - most restaurants were closed. Instead the Chez Babe opened her doors and we enjoyed the best food that we’ve had in Antigua.
Saturday evening was our turn to say goodbye and the tears started during our farewell VHF call, announcing leaving the rally, the following morning.
We checked out of English Harbour and spent the night in Deep Bay on the north-west coast of Antigua.
At 05.00 hours we sailed to Port de Gustavia, St. Barthelemy (St. Barts) in the Lesser Antilles. A choppy anchorage encouraged us to leave the next day and anchor around the corner in the marine park in Baie de Colombier.
It is said that St. Barts is the jewel in the middle of the Lesser Antilles; the Riviera of the Caribbean. In the past the island has been fought over by the French, British and Spanish; changing hands with Sweden and then France. The Swedes made it a free port which continues today. France made it an overseas commune with freedom from European laws and economically it is thriving.
Nosey turtles checking us out (although we discovered that they are actually gulping air at the surface to enable them to carry on eating the sea grass); bleating goats on the hills surrounding the bay and the waters were crystal clear.
A breathless walk up to the village of Colombier, we were to cross paths with three tortoises, saw humming birds in the spider lilies and lizards (of all sizes) scuttling away into the undergrowth. The views from the hilltop were spectacular.
A visit to the “American Gourmet” in Gustavia was heaven but horrendously expensive. The till doesn’t recognise anything that costs less than 10$. It is by far the best deli we have ever shopped in.
Snorkelling here is sensational. The Caribbean Sting Rays glide over the sandy seabed with large Hawksbill Seaturtles munching the grassy areas. Fantastic sighting of two Caribbean Reef Squid with the most stunning colours, backing off as we swam past. Debbie was within a few feet of one of the turtles coming to the surface and was unfazed by her, whilst it gulped air and then daintily glided back down to it’s feeding ground. A Great Barracuda was very interested in the underside of Amelie, whether it was shade from the scorching sun or ready food on her waterline? An unnerving moment when it approached Debbie but reading up about them, this is purely curiosity - phew!
We generally have a late afternoon walk when the sun is less harsh. Walking along the beach or taking another walk along the cliffs to Anse des Flamand. This is a sleepy village with a bakery and various hotels but in keeping with the beach and coastline.
We maybe on holiday but there are always jobs to be done on Amelie. One job that has been put off until it was desperate was the master head’s basin. The drainage was very slow and Stephen had the unpleasant task of dismantling the pipe and removing debris from the lumen. A few choice words came floating out of the cabin which of course helped enormously and we now have a free flowing basin.
We are feeling an overwhelming sense of exhaustion and limbs feeling like lead which Stephen puts down to “post OWR syndrome”. No doubt our time in this beautiful bay will restore our energy levels.
As a treat, we decided to take the Tinker Tramp to the beach and walk over the hill to a fine restaurant, La Langouste. Stephen being a gentleman decided that he would get Debbie ashore dry. This exercise ended up with Stephen fully submerged but the cigars were saved first before the wallet. No help from Debbie who was laughing too much to give assistance. He returned to Amelie for a shower and fresh clothes whilst Debbie dried out his damp cigars and sodden wallet on the hot rocks. Lunch was spectacular.
The OWR was always a source of company in anchorages but now we have to start from scratch and make an effort to introduce ourselves to others. We enjoyed a delightful evening aboard an American boat, Escapade and have since bumped into them over the days.
We were thrilled to witness the completion of the ‘Concarneau to St. Barts Transat’ with Safran coming in first. Over the next few days we watched the remainder of the boats sailing towards the finish line with an entourage of committee boats to greet them. A fantastic spectacle.
Cigar and coffee bean purchasing has been top priority. The former being easy as there are plenty of Cuban cigar shops around. The latter has been more difficult. We bought the “American Gourmet” out and then travelled around the island for more. Nespresso appears to have taken over St. Barts! We eventually tracked down beans at the airport and bought enough to keep Stephen happy for a month.
To travel around the island we hired a “couple’s” quad bike. Exhilirating and bumpy at times but a thrilling ride. The island is fascinating and very beautiful. We ended up in Nikki’s Beach for a four hour lunch overlooking the blue water which changed colour as the afternoon light diminished. An engaging waiter kept us entertained giving us expensive suggestions for our wine with the meal.
The following two days were spent chilling and making ready for our journey to the BVIs. St. Barts was the remedy for any post OWR blues.