After a false start we headed out of the marina on Jaz’s birthday and motored in glorious sunshine to the San Juan Islands (USA). Following a thorough vetting by the US Immigration officer (Friday Harbour, San Juan Island) and refuelling (as it was cheaper than Canada) we anchored in Shipyard Boat Harbour at the southern end of the cove.

From here we used “M” to travel into town for fresh provisions, marine and plumbing stuff. We were keen to depart to more remote anchorages but we had to wait for a weather front to pass through. The wait was worth it as we had sunshine all the way to Blind Bay, which is in the lee of Blind Island, between Shaw and Orcas Islands. Shaw Island is spartan with a quaint store by the Shaw Landing ferry dock. Private notices adorned every pasture, gateway, driveway, even the beach! We came across either an ancient cemetery or an individual with a flair for working with driftwood. Most of the sculptures were “paganish” and there was a spooky air about this place. In contrast, Orcas Landing was a special place…..absolutely beautiful with a great store selling everything from food, booze, kitchenware (Debbie was in her element), gifts, books and a brilliant deli. We walked for a while, alongside pastures carpeted with pink clover, miniature ponies in dollhouse type stables and the most idyllic waterside glades. A small, shallow marina nestles in a lagoon not far from the village, with Arbutus trees lining the shore. The historic Orcas Hotel overlooks the harbour but a disappointment as it is tired and on the market. Our first of the season kayak adventure allowed us to see a seal colony with pups and we circumnavigated Blind Island with it’s blossoming trees and wild flowers. Each evening we viewed Bald Eagles gliding above the trees spying for tasty mammals and hearing the familiar call to their partner when roosting. 

We could have stayed there but apart from the week we spent in the fall of 2016, we were keen to explore more of the islands before returning to Canada.

Overcast and with little wind we motored out of the bay and headed towards to Matia Island (pronounced either “Mah-tee-ah” or “Mah-cia”). The scenery was tremendous, passing through the narrow Peavine Pass between Obstruction Island and Blakely Island into the Rosario Strait. The temperature increased and by the time we anchored in a shallow bay on the south east tip of the island, the sun was warming the teak. Basking seals, Black Oystercatchers, Rough-winged Swallows, Harlequin Ducks and red legged Pigeon Guillemots greeted our arrival. Puffin Island was just around the corner and both islands are part of the San Juan Islands National Wildlife Refuge. As we ate lunch in the cockpit, a huge River Otter enjoyed a salty snack on the nearby rocks and close by the sound of frantic hammering from a woodpecker. Towards sunset, with the Olympus Mountain range sparkling in the dying sun’s rays, we witnessed an aquatic frenzy with a couple of seals athletically fishing in the tidal race between the two islands. Stephen’s first cigar and coffee of the day was enhanced by the Pigeon Guillemot flying school, individual birds pushing others off the sandstone rocks and their undignified crash landing on the water with their huge red webbed extended feet. A majestic Great Blue Heron decided to use the Guillemot’s nesting rock for a fishing lookout.

The weather dictates where and how long we stay, so after two days we up anchor and decide to sail in the gentle breeze, unpickled our watermaker and made our first tank of water of the season. No destination was planned, we just relied on where the wind took us. With the last of the sunshine and spitting rain, we found a gorgeous anchorage in the northeast of Jones Island. This area proved to be a popular place with the Sheriff visiting several times a day and other boaters using the buoys or small wharf at the head of the bay. Late Friday afternoon saw a group of young men, who we believed had been fishing, around the camp fire on shore with their beers and foldaway chairs, cooking up their catch. The hikes around this small island were amazing, with magnificent views across the strait, watching seals basking on the rocks, various birds flitting through the forest but alas, no Blacktailed Deer who frequent the woods. Jones Island was hit by a huge storm in 1990, where over a thousand trees were felled. The island was closed for 18 months for safety reasons. Today the island has designated camping sites with water from a well and restrooms, where the authorities suggest you don’t let off fireworks! The storm felled trees are left in situ to decompose naturally. Here we saw Turkey Vultures swooping overhead, last seen in Panama.

West Sound on Orcas Island was a huge disappointment but encouraged us to move on quickly and we ended up in Spencer Spit on thenortheast of Lopez island. A saltwater lagoon sits in the middle of the sandy spit with drift wood, logs and trunks littering the beach. The lagoon is home to many seabirds, including a Great Blue Heron, strutting gracefully and stretching its long neck. The spit stretches out towards Frost Island and was a temporary fishing camp for the First Nation people over a thousand years ago. The terrain was a change from the tree clad islands that we have passed during our travels, walking barefoot in the hot sandy, shell strewn beach was a huge treat.

Cigar-less and the fact that our friends, Anne, Michael and Kenny were in Friday Harbour, we sailed back to aid the withdrawal symptoms and to spend several days sharing stories. Huge Stellar Sea-lions greeted us as we entered the shallows just off the harbour. We anchored within metres of a wildlife protected shoreline, watching Black-tailed deer wading in the shallows. The bonus of having a kayak on board, is that we can travel noiselessly around bays, watching out for wildlife. We were graced by a River Otter, swimming just below the surface, alongside the kayak. 

Close by is Parks Bay, another biological “preserve” of the Washington State University. An evening kayaking and later, lazing in the cockpit, gave us some sights that we hadn’t seen before. A beautiful Osprey perched on a high bough watched us glide along the foreshore. His pure white vest and head glistening in the late afternoon sun rays. We watched him watch us for ages, completely spellbound. As we circumnavigated the bay, we encountered large Raccoons, foraging for mud-clad morsels. When they noticed us, they comically hid behind rocks or in the undergrowth and periodically lifted their “Zorro masked like” heads to check us out. One individual that we came across was steadying itself by standing in a wide gait fashion on its hind legs whilst frantically scrabbling and digging with its front paws in the mud. The look of surprise when he noticed us was hysterical, as if he had been caught in the act! Later from Amelie we watched a lone Otter fishing and landing on a floating pontoon, to clean his whiskers and then, rub his pelt along the warmed wooden planks, giving himself a good massage. A Kingfisher swooped down from boughs, successfully fishing.

Debbie had waited three weeks to get to Lopez Island and the wait was worth it. Stephen expertly navigated the tricky entrance to Fisherman Bay, entering at high tide, with 0.5 metres underneath us at times. Known affectionately as “Slowpez” as it’s days pass slowly, leisurely and no one is in a hurry. Most people wave to you or want to stop and speak. Lopez Village in Fisherman Bay (a landlocked bay) was quaint, slightly mystic, alternative and the commercial hub of the island.  We enjoyed their famous homemade ice cream from the Creamery and resisted the fudge. Found the best supermarket since we’ve been in the North Pacific and an excellent bakery. No taxis, motorbikes or rental cars only kayaks, SUPs, bicycles, privately owned cars, some of which were classic American soft tops with silver Foxes and Vixens, leisurely driving around the island with the wind in their locks. We wandered around discovering a Farmer’s market selling Island produce, art and craft. The market is based in a garden donated by a former Islander, we felt as if we’d walked onto the “Walton's” set. Opposite was Vita’s, a great place to have a cocktail and lunch surrounded by handmade bird boxes (for the Babes, there was a Villa Maria bird-box) and a small open air theatre on the lawn. 

Three weeks in these wonderful islands at the start of the season was a gem for us. We shrugged off the cobwebs, found peaceful anchorages, abundance of wildlife and had some good weather. 

Each day is a marvel, around every corner, more beauty……it feels like summer is on its way…..time to move on.